Orchids have surpassed the poinsettia in many parts of the country as the biggest selling flowering potted plant.  There are many types though, some quite expensive, with varying growth requirements.  Knowing these, together with which are easiest to grow indoors, can save you money and disappointment from false expectations.

First, decide what you want from an orchid plant.  If you just want the blooms, then your desires and budget are the main limitations.  Since many orchids bloom for a long period under the right conditions, weeks or even months, this may be all you want.  If you want to keep the plants growing indoors as houseplants, blooming in future years, then your choices begin to narrow.

Orchids can be grouped in several ways– keys to their requirements, and so to your success.  Some are terrestrial, or growing in soil, such as the Jewel Orchid (Ludisia) and some Lady Slippers (Paphiopedilum).

Most though are epiphytic, or growing on bark or similar material. These get their water and nutrients from whatever falls on them or their aerial roots.  They are often adapted to high humidity, so fair poorly in dry homes.

The main grouping to be aware of indoors is by temperature requirement.  This comes from the altitude they grow naturally in the tropics.  Those nearest sea level have the warmest and most consistent temperatures, and so are the ones best adapted to similar conditions usually found in homes. These include some of the larger Dendrobium species, Phalaenopsis or Moth Orchids, and Vanda Orchids.

Intermediate-growing orchids are from higher altitudes, where night temperatures fall to 60 degrees during the winter.  Many of these can also be grown indoors, as long as high levels of indirect light are provided, high humidity, and cooler temperatures during winter months.  If you keep you home cooler during winter, perhaps you may wish to try some of these such as the many Cattleya or Corsage orchids and the many hybrids, Laelia, many hybrids of Laelia and Cattleya, Epidendrum, and Lady Slipper or Paphiopedilum.

Cool-growing orchids are from even higher altitudes, where night temperatures reach 50 degrees during the winter. Cymbidium and Oncidium are an example of these, and require quite cool winters with high humidity and high light.

Orchids may differ in their temperature needs, but all grow best indoors with sufficient light and humidity.  Full sun in winter, such as from a south window, is best.  Orchids may also be grown under artificial lights, about a foot above plants and on for about 16 hours a day.

During summer, put plants in indirect light.  Too much light and leaves become light green or yellow, perhaps even brown.  Too little light and leaves may be darker green, slender and twisted; new growth may be horizontal not upright; and plants may not rebloom.

Humidity should be increased from the often 10-15% often found in homes in winter, to around 50-75% around the plants.  This may be done by placing plants on a tray of pebbles kept wet, by misting leaves daily or more often (just make sure and don’t mist furniture and walls!), or by placing plants near a humidifier.  If temperature and light are right, but humidity is too low, plants may not bloom and may grow poorly.

Keep in mind that many orchids only bloom once a year, even under the right conditions.  Some such as Odontoglossum may bloom every 10 months, others such as Phalaenopsis twice a year.

Orchids are quite a large group, and in fact the Orchid family is the largest of flowering plants.  There are over 1000 genera, 25,000 species, and 100,000 hybrids.  So the above recommendations for main genera (such as Vanda and Cattleya) are general, and there are often wide variations in cultural needs depending on species.  Follow these basic rules, though, and you have a good chance of success with the basic orchids you commonly may find for sale.

Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont

The main principle for success with hardy orchids is good soil drainage. This may involve building up a raised bed with a good soil, or excavating and replacing some garden soil with a better mix.

This doesn’t imply extensive digging, it could be as simple as making a large hole with good soil. Sand and perlite are two ingredients often used both to increase soil drainage, and to hold the soil moisture that most species need. The soil moisture relates to the three main habitats that include many of the hardy species.

The upland species are those that do not tolerate constantly moist soil. If your soil doesn’t drain well normally, these may not be the best choice. A hole filled with water should drain in under four hours. Upland orchids usually grow best in full to part shade, but this will vary with hardiness zone and species.

Some hardier species include the Lady Slippers and hardy Chinese orchids. Transition species are those that can tolerate more constant moisture, but thrive under drier conditions similar to the upland species. When flowering, if in a drought, they may need some watering. Otherwise these species thrive in often harsh conditions, and are good choices for many gardens.

A good moisture-retentive soil mix, even if added to the planting hole, is often needed. Hardy transition orchids include the Egret flower, Fragrant Ladies Tresses, Marsh orchid, and Purple Fringed orchid. Wetland species, as their name implies, require constantly moist or even wet soil. They prefer full sun. Unless you have a normally wet soil, you should line the raised bed or planting hole with plastic to retain moisture.

Poke a few holes in the bottom to allow slow water drainage, as these do not like to sit in stagnant water. In nature their roots are in edges of streams or ponds where water is moving, even if slowly. One of the hardiest wetland species is the Rose Pogonia. Three additional tips will help you have success with hardy orchids.

After blooming, remove old flowers. This keeps plant energy going into the roots and not into seed production. When weeding, grasp and hold the orchid plant while pulling weeds. This helps you from pulling up the orchid with the weed. The orchid roots are generally shallow, with the weed roots growing under them.

Then for extra winter protection you may wish to add a couple inches of weed-free straw or pine needles on top. If using leaves, make sure they are ones that don’t pack down tightly.

Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont

Yes, there are orchids you can grow outside in the garden.  These are called hardy or terrestrial (meaning in the ground) orchids.  Growing this group of plants can be easier than you think, provided you choose the right species and pay attention to a few cultural needs.

When people think of orchids, they invariably think of the ones among the 20,000 tropical species and even more hybrids that must be grown indoors in northern climates.  Most don’t realize there are over 200 species of terrestrial native orchids that grow in North America.

Since some of these may be endangered in certain states, it is essential to purchase plants from ethical sources– nurseries that have either saved species from habitat destruction, or more often propagated and grown them in their nurseries. One authority for such sources is the New England Wildflower Society.

To dispel two common misconceptions, hardy orchids can be grown in gardens outside their natural habitats, and they can be transplanted.  Tips for which species to choose for what kind of conditions, and their culture, can be found in the book by William Mathis, The Gardener’s Guide to Growing Hardy Perennial Orchids .

One principle for growing hardy orchids is that many not only thrive in temperate, even frigid climates, but some may need below-freezing temperatures to meet cold requirements for bloom (much like tulips and many other perennials).

Another key point in success with hardy orchids is that they don’t need much fertilizer.  In fact, they don’t tolerate heavy fertility.  Usually some compost incorporated at planting, and applied around them in future years, is all that is needed.  If you have nutrient-poor soil, you may fertilize plants lightly with one-quarter strength or rate that you would use normally for flowers.

Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont

All orchids are perennial herbs and lack any permanent woody structure. Orchids can grow according to two patterns:

• Monopodial: The stems grows from a single bud, leaves are added from the apex each year and the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several metres in length, as in Vanda and Vanilla.
• Sympodial: The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size, bloom and then stop growing, to be then replaced. Sympodial orchids grow laterally rather than vertically, following the surface of their support. The growth continues by development of new leads, with their own leaves and roots, sprouting from or next to those of the previous year, as in Cattleya. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called ‘eye’, an undeveloped bud, thereby branching.

Terrestrial orchids may be rhizomatous or form corms or tubers. The root caps of terrestrials are smooth and white.

Some sympodial terrestrials, such as Orchis and Ophrys, have two subterranean tuberous roots. One is used as a food reserve for wintry periods, and provides for the development of the other one, from which visible growth develops.

In warm and humid climates, many terrestrial orchids do not need pseudobulbs.

Epiphytic orchids have modified aerial roots that can sometimes be a few meters long. In the older parts of the roots, a modified spongy epidermis called velamen has the function to absorb humidity. It is made of dead cells and can have a silvery-grey, white or brown appearance. In some orchids the velamen includes spongy and fibrous bodies near the passage cells. These structures are named tilosomes.

The cells of the root epidermis grow at a right angle to the axis of the root to allow them to get a firm grasp on their support. Nutrients mainly come from animal droppings and other organic detritus on their supporting surface.

The base of the stem of sympodial epiphytes, or in some species essentially the entire stem, may be thickened to form what is called a pseudobulb that contains nutrients and water for drier periods.

The pseudobulb has a smooth surface with lengthwise grooves and can have different shapes, often conical or oblong. Its size is very variable; in some small species of Bulbophyllum it is no longer than two millimeters, while in the largest orchid in the world, Grammatophyllum speciosum (giant orchid), it can reach three meters.

Some Dendrobium have long, canelike pseudobulbs with short, rounded leaves over the whole length, some other orchids have hidden or extremely small pseudobulbs, completely included inside the leaves.

With ageing the pseudobulb sheds its leaves and becomes dormant. At this stage it is often called a backbulb. A pseudobulb then takes over, exploiting the last reserves accumulated in the backbulb, which eventually dies off too. A pseudobulb typically lives for about five years.

Orchids are easily distinguished, as they share some very evident apomorphies. Among these: bilaterally symmetric (zygomorphic), many resupinate, one petal (labellum) is always highly modified, stamens and carpels are fused, and the seeds are extremely small.

Like most monocots, orchids generally have simple leaves with parallel veins, although some Vanilloideae have a reticulate venation. Leaves may be ovate, lanceolate, or orbiculate, and very variable in size.

Their characteristics are often diagnostic. They are normally alternate on the stem, often plicate, and have no stipules. Orchid leaves often have siliceous bodies called stegmata in the vascular bundle sheaths (not present in the Orchidoideae) and are fibrous.

The structure of the leaves corresponds to the specific habitat of the plant. Species that typically bask in sunlight, or grow on sites which can be occasionally very dry, have thick, leathery leaves and the laminas are covered by a waxy cuticle to retain their necessary water supply. Shade species, on the other hand, have long, thin leaves.

The leaves of most orchids are perennial, that is they live for several years, while others, especially those with plicate leaves, shed them annually and develop new leaves together with new pseudobulbs, as in Catasetum.

The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or lithophyte, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsiella limminghei are light brownish green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments.

The attractive mottle of the leaves of Lady’s Slippers from tropical and subtropical Asia, (Paphiopedilum) is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The Jewel Orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its fairly inconspicuous white flowers.

Some orchids, as Dendrophylax lindenii (Ghost Orchid), Aphyllorchis and Taeniophyllum depend on their green roots for photosynthesis and lack normally developed leaves, as do all of the heterotrophic species.

Orchidaceae, the Orchid family, is the largest family of the flowering plants (Angiospermae). Its name is derived from the genus Orchis.

The Royal Botanical Gardens of Kew list 880 genera and nearly 22,000 accepted species, but the exact number is unknown (perhaps as many as 25,000)because of taxonomic disputes. The number of orchid species equals about four times the number of mammal species, or more than twice the number of bird species.

It also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants. About 800 new orchid species are added each year.

The largest genera are Bulbophyllum (2,000 species), Epidendrum (1,500 species), Dendrobium (1,400 species) and Pleurothallis (1,000 species). The family also includes the Vanilla (the genus of the vanilla plant), Orchis (type genus) and many commonly cultivated plants like some Phalaenopsis or Cattleya.

Moreover, since the introduction of tropical species in the 19th century, horticulturists have produced more than 100,000 hybrids and cultivars.

The complex mechanisms which orchids evolve to achieve cross-pollination were investigated by Charles Darwin and described in his 1862 book On the various contrivances by which British and foreign orchids are fertilised by insects, and on the good effects of intercrossing.

Orchidaceae are cosmopolitan, occurring in almost every habitat apart from deserts and glaciers. The great majority are to be found in the tropics, mostly Asia, South America and Central America, but they are also found above the Arctic Circle, in southern Patagonia and even on Macquarie Island, close to Antarctica.

A majority of orchids are perennial epiphytes, which grow anchored to trees or shrubs in the tropics and subtropics. Other species are lithophytes, growing on rocks or very rocky soil, or are terrestrial. Nearly all temperate orchids are terrestrial.

Some orchids, like Neottia and Corallorhiza, lack chlorophyll and are unable to photosynthesize. Instead, these species obtain energy and nutrients by parasitising soil fungi through the formation of orchid mycorrhizas.

The fungi involved include those that form ectomycorrhizas with trees and other woody plants, parasites such as Armillaria, and saprotrophs. These orchids are known as myco-heterotrophs, but were formerly (incorrectly) described as saprophytes due to the belief that they gained their nutrition by breaking down organic matter.

While only a few species are achlorophyllous holoparasites, all orchids are myco-heterotrophic during germination and seedling growth and even photosynthetic adult plants may continue to obtain carbon from their mycorrhizal fungi.

Brassia orchids are epiphytic plants that can be found in some of the West Indian islands as well as some parts of America. Named after a prominent plant-life illustrator, the best thing about these odd-looking plants is probably the wonderful smell of their delicately fragranced blossoms.

The Brassia is nicknamed the Spider Orchid due to the characteristic shape of its flowers. Varieties come in pleasing pastel colours, accentuated with brown highlights which do make them look remarkably similar to their namesakes. Like virtually all orchids, members of this family are fairly easy to care for if you follow the tips below and try to accommodate for just a few simple requirements.

Pick a perfect pot

As with all orchids, the pot in which your Brassia is housed will have a huge effect on its well-being so choose wisely. Ideally, select a natural, porous material which will prevent the planting matter from becoming too waterlogged.

Good ventilation to the roots is also an important requirement so the container should have a well aerated base, possibly with slits in the sides too.

The planting matter should be of a type that is specifically formulated for orchids rather than just regular compost and will usually consist of many substances including bark and moss. You should be prepared to re-pot in fresh medium every two to three years to prevent root rot.

Get the illumination right

Making sure your plant gets adequate light is absolutely essential, but you need to remember that orchids are very prone to sunburn. Take care to protect them from direct, unfiltered sunshine by using a shade or curtain or simply just choosing your location wisely.

If providing enough illumination is an issue then think about relocating the Brassia or perhaps investing in a daylight simulating fluorescent lamp; fairly pricey but other plants may benefit from it too.

Turn up the temperature

Remember, these orchids originate from a tropical habitat so will need temperatures in the 65 to 75 degree range in order to survive indoors. Allowing a reduction in the overnight temperature to no less than 55 to 60 degrees will also be necessary. To encourage re-flowering, provide a similarly cool environment during the orchids resting period between early autumn and late winter.

Think before watering

Although this type does like a little more water than other varieties, you should still water sparingly and only after you have checked the dampness of the planting matter. Take care not to let this become over-desiccated; it should fell just damp to the touch before you re-hydrate.

Boost the humidity

This variety is used to steamy surroundings so create as much humidity as possible by positioning humidifiers or soaked pebbles close by. Placing the container on a stand over a tray of water is also an option as long as you ensure that the water does not seep into the pot and damage the roots.

Don’t forget the fertiliser

Brassias require more feeding than many other orchid varieties and your plant will benefit from being doused with a weak nitrogen based preparation every seven days. You can go a little easier on the fertiliser during the plant’s dormant stage.

Rest assured that it is actually quite difficult to kill an orchid through lack of attention as they pretty much like to be left to their own devices. Provided you get the fundamentals right, you should find the Brassia orchid to be a very low maintenance and a very unusual looking addition to your plant family.

The Laelia orchids were probably named after one of the vestal virgins of the Roman patrician family, Laelius. Most laelias are ephiphytic and have one or two evergreen leaves on top of a pseudobulb. They are closely related to Cattleya..

Laelia orchids vary tremendously in size. Some have flower sprays eight to ten feet long. The bright yellow, red, bronze, deep purple, and green flowers have been very attractive to hybridizers, who have used them over one hundred times in crosses with cattleyas alone.

These crosses, called Laeliocattleya (usually abbreviated Lc.), are sometimes called “cocktail orchids” because of their use in small corsages. Laeliaflava is a ten inch plant with canary-yellow flowers. It does well under lights, as do a number of the smaller hybrids which bloom almost continuously.

Laelias need intermediate to warm temperatures and bright light. Full sun in a window may not be enough. Drench and let dry until they bloom. After blooming, give them a rest by holding back on the water and giving them 50°F to 55°F night temperatures.

The iconic Cattleya orchids, also known as the Queen of Orchids, are the models of the orchid family. Their blooms are what most people think of when orchids are mentioned. They extremely popular in floral circles and are often used in classic elegant décor.

The Cattleya grows in the wild and scientists have developed special breeds of this variety to enhance its versatility. It thrives naturally in rainforests and highly humid mountainous regions. In nature, this plant can be found growing on trees so its root system requires unique conditions.

In order to cultivate these regal beauties in your home, it is important to know about your plant’s preferences and provide them in your home. The following elements are most important when creating the perfect environment for your Cattleya:

1. Potting
There are a few requirements about how to pot this plant that will make the rest of its upkeep a breeze. It will thrive best in a pot made of natural porous material, like terracotta, with ventilation holes in the sides and bottom that can allow the greatest amount of air flow and soak up extra wetness.

Filling the pot with a matter specialized for orchids containing bulky absorbent material will provide the most positive growth results. A well looked after orchid has an ever growing root system, so you will need to re-pot your Cattleya every two years to accommodate.

If you are feeling a bit frisky and are looking for a horticultural challenge, you can actually mount your orchid on a cut log or other organic porous material.

2. Light
This plant loves the light. However, direct sunlight can cause the leaves to burn. The Cattleya should remain in a liberal amount of filtered or screened sunshine all year long. During the winter months or if you live in a particularly cloudy or shady area, it may be best to invest in a sun lamp in order to keep your orchid happy.

3. Temperature
Cattleyas can thrive in a broad range of temperatures, anywhere from 55 degrees to 95 degrees depending on the season. Because of where they originate from, they can also require a significant nighttime temperature drop of 15 degrees or more. It is a good idea to have a chat with your local plant expert to determine your specific breed’s temperature needs.

4. Humidity
Here’s where the plant is particularly picky. The Cattleya orchid depends on moisture from the air for some of its hydration. This is why they must be in a room that has an extremely high level of humidity. In order to achieve this indoors, you can place containers of water or damp stones close to the plant, use a spray bottle to frequently mist the plant, run a humidifier or house the plant in a damp corner of your bathroom.

5. Water
The best rule to remember when watering any orchid is that less is more. It is possible and very easy to over-water the Cattleya, especially when the plant is in full bloom. This is when the Cattleya develops new growth by storing water and nutrients in pseudo bulbs. The plant is absorbing moisture from its humid environment so the roots absorb only as much moisture as necessary to achieve balance. The roots prefer a consistent level of barely damp soil rather than frequent drenching. Feel the potting substance around the plant and add water only when necessary.

6. Fertilizer
As with all house plants, you’ll get better results when you feed them. For optimal blooms, add an orchid-specific fertilizer once a month and more often when they are in bloom. Special foods are made for specific phases of the plant’s growth and can be found at garden centers.

If you are new to the world of orchid gardening, Cattleyas are a fantastic flower to grow. From mounting them on cut logs to cultivating their pseudo bulbs, they offer multiple opportunities to see just how green your thumb can get.

The Cattleya orchid is also called the “corsage orchid” because in the old days fashionable ladies used to sport an oversized Cattleya corsage to special events. Even though it is not so common to wear corsages anymore, the Cattleya orchid is still extremely popular among amateur and professional growers. They are perfect as cut flowers because they are long-lasting and come in an array of colors.

The discovery of Cattleya was an accident. In the nineteenth century, a moss and lichen collector just grabbed some random sturdy leaves in the forest as packing material to protect his collections en route from Brazil to England. A horticulturist, William Cattley, saw the strange packing material and decided to grow it. Few years later, the strange plant produced some stunning blooms that rocked the world. The genus was therefore named Cattleya as a tribute to William Cattley, and the plant was then named Cattleya labiata. From then on, people started the crazy hunt for wild orchids in South America.

To this day, Cattleya orchids still define orchids; they are the benchmark of orchids. You may hear growers say “grow this orchid like Cattleya except a bit less light” or “this orchids need the Cattleya temperature.” Because Cattleya species are founded throughout tropical Central and South America, these orchids like intermediate to warm temperatures (55 to 65°F/13 to 18°C in winter nights and 15°F/10°C or so warmer during the day) and medium bright light.

At home, it’s best to grow your Cattleya orchid by the southern, eastern or western windowsills. Provide as much light as it can take without burning the leaves; touch them to make sure they are not hot. When the plant receives its upper limit of light, it will show you a reddish tinge.

Since Cattleya orchids are epiphytes, they like their potting material to dry out between watering. Or if you live in humid area, you can even mount your orchid on a slab of wood or on the tree in your garden. That way, you would never over water your plant!